Historical icons and natural wonders in Japan’s cultural capital: KANSAI GUIDE

You’ll be captivated by the urban bustle of Osaka, and the demure refinement of Kyoto, but venture further and you’ll discover the entire region is filled with historic Japanese icons and cultural experiences that are unique to Kansai.

The heart of Japan, Kansai is home to some of the finest examples of Japanese castles, temples and shrines nestled amid rugged coasts, forests, lakes, and waterfalls. The people of Kansai are proud of their religious, culinary and musical traditions that go back centuries, and celebrate them through the year with matsuri, local festivals during which you’ll be encouraged to admire the delicate blossoms, dance to time-honoured songs, or simply eat, drink and be merry.

If you’re looking to follow in the footsteps of the samurai, then visiting one of their fortresses is a perfect place to start. One of the most imposing is Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture, a Unesco World Heritage Site located 30 minutes by Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka. Locals call it Shirasagi-jo, the White Heron Castle, because of its gleaming shikkui plaster walls and intricate grey tiles. After a five-year restoration, the castle was returned to immaculate condition in 2015. Pay special attention to the craftsmanship of medieval carpenters who shaped the interlocking columns, posts, and beams.

Beyond the castle lies Koko-en Garden. Relax as you stroll through its nine walled gardens that pay tribute to timeless Japanese landscapes such as pine groves, bamboo forests, and flower fields. Don’t miss the Souju-an tea ceremony house built in the traditional sukiya style, where you can relax on the tatami with a bowl of matcha and a seasonal wagashi confectionery.

For a deeper exploration of Japanese history in Kansai, head to Nara Prefecture. Nara City was Japan’s capital during the 8th Century, and many shrines and temples constructed during that time are now part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara, a Unesco World Heritage Site. The vast Nara Park lets you walk in quiet contemplation amidst free-roaming sika deer, which are officially designated as a national natural monument. To ensure their well-being, visitors are advised not to leave any litter behind as the deer may mistake it for food.

Todaiji Temple is one of the most renowned and awe-inspiring of the Seven Great Temples of Nara. As you enter the temple complex through the Nandai-mon (Great South Gate), you will pass two towering eight metres tall Nio guardians. Rippling with muscles, one bares his teeth, while the other portrays a stern expression. Proceeding along the tree-lined path towards the Great Buddha Hall, you will eventually come face to face with a 15 metres tall seated gilt bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana—one of Japan's largest—inside one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.

Nara’s Horyuji Temple is another World Heritage Site. Its central gate, main hall, and five-story pagoda were built around 600AD, making them some of the world’s oldest surviving wooden structures. Inside the main hall, discover treasures including canopies, paintings, and statues amassed over centuries.

East of Nara, the Iga-ryu Ninja Museum in the northwestern part of Mie Prefecture brings history to life. Test your ninja skills as you discover their secrets and learn how to throw shuriken.

Located south of Osaka, Mount Koya in Wakayama Prefecture is the centre of Shingon Buddhism. Reachable by train followed by cable car, you can spend a tranquil day exploring the temples, gardens, and museums that make up the small town. A serene spot is Okunoin Cemetery, Japan’s largest graveyard, with winding pathways set amongst giant cedars. For an unforgettable earthly experience, stay the night in one of Mount Koya's 50 temple lodgings known as shukubo.

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At Ekoin Temple, Sesshu Kondo is the head monk. “We welcome visitors of all nationalities, ages and faiths,” he says. The shukubo serves shojin ryori (Buddhist cuisine) that is free of animal products, and uses seasonal vegetables and local plants. Traditionally, each meal contains five colours (red, green, yellow, black, white) five flavours (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami) and five cooking methods (raw, boiled, baked, fried, steamed).

Highlights for guests at Ekoin include participating in the morning goma fire ritual or afternoon Ajikan meditation. Sesshu Kondo likes that these activities provide guests with unique experiences. “You can feel the atmosphere of a Japanese temple,” he says. “It’s also an opportunity to stay in a real wooden building built many years ago.”

Venture further east in Kansai and you’ll reach Ise Jingu, a complex of 125 shrines in the southern part of Mie Prefecture where many consider the soul of Japan. The complex's main Naiju Shrine is dedicated to the goddess Amaterasu. Priests here conduct more than 1,500 rituals each year, praying for good harvests, the health of the Imperial Family, and world peace.

Just northeast of Kyoto City in Shiga Prefecture lies Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake. Along with lake swimming, you can try numerous water sports from sailing to kayaking. Lake Biwa is also a treasure trove for naturalists with more than 60 endemic species including fish, insects, and crustaceans. Those preferring to stay on dry land can reconnect with nature at the Kohoku Wild Bird Center and spot local and migratory birds including the Steller’s sea eagle, tundra swans, and taiga bean geese, or revel in the natural beauty of western Kyoto Prefecture with a boat ride down the Hozu River from Kameoka to Arashiyama.

Kansai's landscape changes throughout the year, with traditional festivals in each season. Around February, the fragrant plum blossoms appear at spots such as Osaka Castle, and Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. In early April, the cherry trees are covered in pale pink petals, providing a window to enjoy their fleeting beauty. Pack yourself a picnic, head to one of Kansai’s parks, and enjoy the pleasure of hanami, the act of simply sitting and relaxing under the iconic blossoms. As the seasons progress, wisterias, azaleas, and then hydrangeas also bloom, transforming Japanese gardens. In November, as cooler temperatures arrive, join the locals to celebrate koyo when the trees blaze with red and yellow leaves.

Having been celebrated for more than 1,400 years, Oto Matsuri is a vibrant and energetic festival. Held each February at Kamikura Shrine, Oto Matsuri is the perfect antidote to the winter chill as 2,000 men with flaming torches race down the mountainside. This sacred purification ritual follows long-held traditions, so only men are allowed on the mountain on that day.

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In March, everyone is welcome for the Omizutori Festival held at Nara’s Nigatsudo Hall. Visitors have the chance to sip sacred water and see monks parade around the hall’s balcony with burning pine boughs. Crowds form below the balcony as a glowing spark landing on you is thought to bring good luck for the year.

At the height of summer, Tokushima City hosts Japan’s biggest dance festival, Awa Odori. Musicians, dancers and spectators from across the country converge, while women in kimono and straw torioigasa hats dance in perfect synchronicity, their hands raised skywards. Visitors are even encouraged to join in; as the locals say: “The dancing fool and the watching fool are both fools, so why not dance?”

If you’re looking for heart-stopping action, then Kishiwada Danjiri in September is one of Japan’s most frenetic festivals. Four-tonne wooden shrines known as danjiri are dragged at speed through the city of Kishiwada. Stay clear as the danjiri hurtle by, and don’t forget to grab some yakisoba or a chocolate covered banana from one of the yatai mobile food stalls.

With international and domestic flights plying Kansai International Airport, access to the Kansai could not be more convenient. Even though an efficient network of trains and buses ensures you’ll maximise your time, you probably won’t manage to see it all, but that's alright—save some experiences for your next visit to Kansai where new discoveries always await.