Shibousai Kitagawa

Guests looking for Shibousai Kitagawa would probably be forgiven for not being able to identify it on the first try. Located deep in the Matsusaka suburbs — a solid half-hour’s journey west from Matsusaka Station, the former Michelin-starred restaurant largely indistinguishable from the other houses surrounding it, identifiable only from the blue noren curtain draped across its entrance and the Zen-style pebble garden out front.

Strangely enough, its traditional Japanese exterior is very different from the cuisine within. Chef Kitagawa Yoshihiro serves Japanese-style Chinese fare, known as chuka-ryori, using premium ingredients that range from ise-ebi spiny lobster to shark fin to Matsusaka wagyu beef, the last of which is known as one of the Three Great Beefs of Japan. This is supplemented by a healthy amount of vegetables from his own garden, planted, nurtured and harvested dutifully by his wife.

To that end, the fare at Kitagawa is a beautifully eclectic mix; Hainanese-style chicken rice — featuring a mixture of jasmine rice and Tsuyahime from Niigata Prefecture — can be served alongside spring rolls with snow crab and bamboo shoots. For dessert, fresh local fruit is served, sometimes with shiratama dango flour dumplings or almond jelly. Each dish is conceptualized to not just be delicious, but also to be as nutritious and digestible as possible.

Since it only serves one party a day, diners looking to secure a spot at Kitagawa — which was recently named one of The Japan Times’ top Destination Restaurants of 2024 — should adjust their expectations accordingly, however. At the time of writing, the earliest booking that can be made is one year in advance. Slots do occasionally free up before then, but with how difficult it is to make a reservation, it takes a lot to make someone cancel their slot at Kitagawa.