Wakayama: A World Heritage Site and Journey of Deep Mystique at the Kumano Kodo

Your journey begins at JR Osaka Station with a quick jump onto the Hanwa Line and Kisei Main Line, heading toward Shingu Station. Enjoy the scenic rail journey as the landscapes gradually shift the farther you travel from Osaka.
The train takes off, first winding its way through vast mikan (mandarin orange) orchards before passing over a uniquely designed frog-shaped bridge, followed by breathtaking coastal views where the shimmering sea stretches into the horizon. Continue south and see as the views around give away to a tranquil wind and tone to match your upcoming relaxing trip.

As the train banks the Kii Peninsula your route will lead into the Nanki-Kumano Geopark, an area designated for its stunning natural landscapes. Here, the rugged ria coastline meets the vast Pacific Ocean, offering ever-changing, dramatic seascapes.
One of the most spectacular highlights along the route is in Kushimoto, the southernmost town on Japan’s main island. This is where you’ll find Hashigui-iwa, a striking natural rock formation made up of more than 40 towering stone pillars that rise from the sea like stakes. Sculpted by the powerful Kuroshio Current, these rock formations are a testament to the incredible artistry of nature—leaving visitors in awe of its sheer beauty and mystery.

Enjoy a luxe treat for the eyes, soaking in the scenes outside the train window before arriving at JR Shingu Station. This particular guide takes you along the Shingu Three Sacred Shrines Guided Walk, a route that begins just a short jaunt away in front of the local tourism association. Here you’ll meet a savvy guide and embark on a journey through Shingu’s World Heritage Sites.

This tour primarily focuses on visiting three key sites: Kumano Hayatama Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan; its subsidiary shrine, Kamikura Shrine; and Asuka Shrine, which marks the site of Asuka Ōji, a significant stop along the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route. Additionally, the course can be flexibly arranged to suit individual interests.

3:55pm marks the time to board a bus from Shingu Station heading straight for Hongu Town. The Kumano Hongu Onsen Village is home to three renowned hot springs, each with its own unique character. Among them, Yunomine Onsen stands out for its nostalgic atmosphere and historic legacy of nearly 1,800 years, making it Japan’s oldest hot spring.

A babbling creek runs between the townscape of old-world inns, tossing picture-perfect plumes of steam from its surface as it goes. Along the river you’ll find the common sight of locals and visitors using yudutsu (hot water tubs) to boil eggs and vegetables—an everyday scene in this idyllic village. Historically, this onsen served as a purification site for Kumano pilgrims, where travelers would cleanse themselves before visiting the sacred shrines. Experiencing these historic waters firsthand is the perfect way to feel the healing power of Kumano’s ancient traditions.

Ryokan Azumaya is your stay for the night, a historic onsen inn established in the mid-Edo period. Brimming with traditional Japanese air, the inn remains a long-cherished favorite by many including literary figures and artists like the renowned writer Takahama Kyoshi.

Naturally, the highlight of the inn is its onsen. The fresh, naturally sourced hot spring water flows directly from a private spring, giving the bathwater an incredibly smooth and silky texture. The presence of yunohana (mineral deposits) floating in the water is a sign of high-quality onsen, giving off plumes of sulfuric steam that soothe the body and mind.
The ryokan also offers a pure spring bath with no added water, as well as a rare steam bath, one of only a few in Japan that utilizes high-temperature natural steam. Indulge in the treat of natural mists from the spring, a unique chance to warm and steam your body in a moment of slow time.
Nearby, tucked within a river valley, lies Tsuboyu, the only World Heritage Site where you can bathe. Leave time in your trip for an evening or early morning soak in this historic outdoor bath, a truly special moment unique to this sacred onsen village.

Just as vegetables are boiled in the yudutsu (hot water tubs), the tradition of using hot spring water for cooking has long been a part of daily life in Yunomine Onsen. One of the signature dishes that takes advantage of this practice is Mikumano Beef Shabu-Shabu.

Mikumano Beef is carefully raised with meticulous attention to its diet, water, and environment, resulting in exceptionally flavorful meat. Thickly sliced to enhance its richness, the beef is dipped into a hot spring-infused broth, which tenderizes the meat despite its thickness. When enjoyed with house-made ponzu sauce, the umami of the beef tantalizes the palate with a delightfully luxe taste that lingers on the tongue.
Beyond shabu-shabu, the onsen water is also used in dishes such as yudofu (hot spring tofu), chawanmushi (savory egg custard), and various dashi-based dishes. Even at breakfast, guests can savor a bowl of special onsen porridge, making for a truly unique bite you won’t find elsewhere.

The next morning kicks off with a 8:31am bus back to Shingu Station, ready to embark on your very own Kumano Kodo pilgrimage!

The Kōyasaka Trail is the featured stretch on this course that sits along a part of the Nakahechi Route of the Kumano Kodo, once traveled by pilgrims journeying from Kumano Hayatama Taisha to Kumano Nachi Taisha. While the Kumano Kodo is often associated with deep mountain paths, this particular section is unique as the only part of the Nakahechi Route that offers views of the sea.
One moment, the vast Kumano-nada Sea comes into view through the trees before dipping back into a moss-covered stone-paved trail, evoking the ancient pilgrimage atmosphere. This route allows visitors to experience both the historic charm of the Kumano Kodo and the breathtaking coastal scenery, making for a walk you won’t soon forget.

Walk and enjoy the countless historical sights packed along the short 1.5 km trail, including Gorintō (five-ring pagodas) and stone Buddhas standing beside the ancient path. With its gentle slopes, the trail is easy to walk even in light attire, making it the perfect blend of history, nature, and accessibility. Thanks to the guided stories along this course you’ll make your way through this memorable walk before even realizing its over!

For lunch, we visited Tōhō Chaya, a famed local name specializing in Narezushi, a traditional local delicacy of Shingu.

"The more you develop a taste for it, the more you prefer it well-aged. Eventually, the lightly fermented ones start to feel lacking," says the owner. In this case, "well-aged" refers to the degree of fermentation. Unlike regular sushi, Narezushi is not made with vinegar but instead undergoes lactic acid fermentation to achieve its distinctive flavor.

While saba (mackerel) Narezushi is common in central Wakayama, in Shingu, it originally began as a preserved food made with ayu (sweetfish) caught in the rivers of the surrounding mountains. Today, sanma (Pacific saury) Narezushi has become the mainstream variety in Shingu, but at Tōhō Chaya, they still source wild autumn ayu from the tributaries of the Kumano River, preserving the authentic, time-honored taste of the region.

As expected from a fermented delicacy, the first bite reveals a rich, cheese-like aroma. Without the use of vinegar, the natural lactic acid fermentation creates a gentle tang that perfectly balances with the deep umami of the aged fish. Though this Narezushi has been aged for about a month, it is surprisingly mild, with no overpowering fishiness—a testament to its meticulous preparation.
The ayu, nurtured by Shingu’s abundant natural environment, is then preserved through lactic acid fermentation, showcasing the harmonious interplay between nature and human ingenuity. Each bite is a tribute to the wisdom of traditional food preservation, delivering a truly unique and flavorful experience.

With a satisfied appetite its time to board the 2:00 PM bus bound for Mount Nachi. Nestled on the mountainside is Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan. Alongside the neighboring Seiganto-ji Temple, it continues to be a site of deep spiritual devotion.
Here you’ll arrive at the "Nachi-san" bus stop and take the 463 stone steps ascent up to the shrine grounds, hugged by six vermilion-painted halls. The elegant architecture, combined with the crisp mountain air, brings a sense of tranquility that seems to cleanse the soul.

Up here is a chance for prayers and visitors around the worship hall before enjoying a stroll through the sacred grounds. Here we find the Karasu-ishi (Crow Stone), said to be the form taken by Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow that guided Emperor Jimmu on his journey. We also visit the 850-year-old sacred camphor tree, which has a hollowed-out base. It’s said that walking through this opening while holding a Gomagi (prayer stick) or an Ema (wooden prayer plaque) will grant good health and stave illness in an ancient ritual called Tainai Kuguri.

Nachi Falls, revered as the sacred object of worship at Hiro Shrine, an auxiliary shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha, is the most spectacular of the 48 waterfalls found on Mount Nachi. Known also as "Ichi-no-Taki" (The First Waterfall), it boasts a 133-meter drop, making it the tallest waterfall in Japan, with an astonishing water flow of about one ton per second. Step closer and hear how the thunderous roar of cascading water resonates through the air with an all-enveloping mist.

Go even closer and catch a glimpse from Otaki Haisho Butai, the highly recommended “Waterfall Worship Platform”. Here is a rare chance to sip the sacred water from the waterfall’s basin, believed to bring longevity and good health. There is also a special omikuji (fortune slip) that uses this sacred water to reveal one’s fate. Standing amidst the undeniably force and sheer presence of the revered waterfall will leave you feeling profoundly renewed.