Mie: A Journey to Experience the "Ama Culture" Living Along the Beautiful Ise-Shima Sea

On the first day of our journey, we depart from Osaka Station and walk to Umeda Station on the Osaka Metro. Boarding the Midosuji Line bound for Nakamozu, we ride the train to Namba Station, where we disembark to continue our journey.

After arriving at Osaka Metro Namba Station, we take a 5-minute walk to the Kintetsu train platform. From Osaka-Namba Station, we board the sightseeing limited express "Shimakaze", embarking on a 110-minute train journey to Toba Station.

The "Shimakaze" sightseeing express is a luxury train operated by Kintetsu, connecting Osaka, Kyoto, and Nagoya to Ise-Shima. More than just a means of transportation, riding Shimakaze itself is one of the highlights of this trip. Every seat is designed with large windows, ensuring both comfort and spectacular views. As we leave the high-rise buildings of Osaka, the landscape transitions into peaceful countryside scenery, with expansive fields, rivers, and mountains reflecting the changing seasons.
One of the reasons for choosing Shimakaze is its variety of seating options. Private compartments allow for a relaxed and uninterrupted journey. In addition to its comfortable seats, the train offers a dedicated café car, featuring exclusive menu items and limited-edition onboard merchandise. We make our way to the café car, enjoying a freshly brewed coffee and cake while admiring the beautiful scenery along the route.

After arriving at Toba Station, we find a shuttle bus decorated with a cute illustration of an Ama diver waiting for us. The ride to our lunch spot, Ama Hut Hachiman Kamado, takes about 25 minutes.

Osatsu is known as the town with the highest number of Ama divers in Japan. Today, 70 to 80 Ama continue to dive, but at its peak, the town had over 200 active divers. The leader of Ama Hut Hachiman Kamado, Reiko Nomura, is an incredible 93 years old and continued diving until the age of 80.
Our dining space is modeled after a traditional Ama hut, where divers prepare for their dives and take breaks. At the center of the simple, unembellished room is a kamado (hearth) with burning charcoal. In real Ama huts, however, firewood is used instead of charcoal to warm the bodies of divers returning from the cold sea. The tables and chairs are arranged along the walls, creating a setting that feels far removed from a lively restaurant, instead exuding a quiet, solemn atmosphere.

The solemn atmosphere we initially felt quickly fades as the cheerful Ama divers strike up friendly conversations. Their warm, engaging personalities help us relax, making the experience even more enjoyable.
Just as we settle in, a basket filled with fresh seafood arrives. Each group is joined by an Ama diver, who explains the variety of dried fish and shellfish before placing them on the grill to be charcoal-grilled. The types of seafood included depend on the seasonal course menu. Ise lobster is available from November to April. Abalone is in season from May to September. Luckily, today's meal includes both Ise lobster and abalone!
As the seafood sizzles over the charcoal fire, the Ama divers continue sharing their fascinating stories. They usually go diving from 9:00am to 10:30am, and today, they have come straight here after their morning dive. Holding the actual tools they use, they explain how they dive and catch seafood, giving us a firsthand insight into their traditional fishing methods.

No special seasoning was added—just simple charcoal grilling, with no salt or soy sauce. Yet, the natural umami of the seafood was so intense that it was truly surprising. The rich flavors of the ocean alone were more than enough to make each bite deeply satisfying. The plump texture of the Ise lobster and abalone was simply irresistible.
After finishing the meal, several Ama divers joined in, and suddenly, music started playing. They performed the Osatsu Ondo, a traditional local dance. Gathering around the hearth, we joined in the dance, feeling as if we had become Ama divers ourselves, fully immersed in their vibrant culture.

Leaving Ama Hut Hachiman Kamado, we take a leisurely 20-minute walk through the quaint fishing town, enjoying its charming coastal scenery before arriving at the Osatsu Ama Culture Museum.

Inside, various models and exhibits introduce the history and traditions of Ama divers. One of the first displays that catches our eye is a life-size diorama, depicting an Ama diver dressed in a traditional white Isogi (diving attire) as she dives into the sea. Although today’s Ama divers no longer wear Isogi, having switched to wetsuits, we can still see tools like the Isomegane (diving goggles) and Kaginomi (hook tool), which remain unchanged over time.
Another fascinating discovery is the protective charms of Ama divers, known as Seiman and Doman. The star-shaped Seiman and grid-patterned Doman are believed to provide safety and protection, and we’ve noticed these symbols throughout Osatsu Town. Now, having learned their significance, we find ourselves seeing them in a whole new light.

The museum also serves as a tourism hub for Osatsu, offering free maps and travel brochures. It is a must-visit spot for anyone exploring the area.

A five-minute uphill walk along the path beside the Osatsu Ama Culture Museum leads us to a stone torii gate, marking the entrance to Shinmei Shrine. Within its sacred grounds lies Ishigami-san, a small shrine that has long been cherished by the local community.
Ishigami-san is believed to grant one wish to women. Originally, it was a place where Ama divers prayed for bountiful catches and safety at sea. In recent years, it has gained fame as a spiritual power spot, attracting visitors from all over Japan. The number of pilgrims returning for thanksgiving visits after having their wishes granted continues to grow.
Today, we see many fellow visitors paying their respects. Following proper etiquette, we first offer prayers at the main hall of Shinmei Shrine before proceeding to Ishigami-san. With heartfelt sincerity, we make our wishes. Hopefully, we too will have the chance to return one day to express our gratitude for a wish fulfilled.

After visiting the shrine, we head back to the Osatsu Ama Culture Museum and board the 4:39pm Kamome Bus. We get off at the Matsuo Ekiguchi bus stop and transfer to the Kintetsu train at Matsuo Station, taking the Kashikojima-bound train for 26 minutes until we reach the final stop, Kashikojima Station. From there, the complimentary shuttle bus provides a convenient transfer to our accommodation, Shima Kanko Hotel.

Opened as Japan’s first full-scale Western-style resort hotel after World War II, Shima Kanko Hotel carries a legacy of prestige and excellence. It has hosted esteemed guests, including Emperor Showa, who admired the view from the hotel's garden, and served as the venue for the G7 Ise-Shima Summit, welcoming world leaders.
The hotel features two main accommodation wings: "The Classic", completed in 1969, and "The Bay Suites", opened in 2008. Tonight, we will be staying at The Bay Suites, offering an elegant and serene retreat amidst the stunning natural beauty of Ise-Shima.

Each guest room at The Bay Suites comes with a private balcony, offering breathtaking views of the lush forest and vast ocean. The stunning scenery outside the window is so mesmerizing that we find ourselves gazing in awe for a while.
As beautiful as the room is, the hotel itself has many more attractions to explore. Unable to resist, we take a leisurely stroll around the premises, discovering stories and historical connections to some of Japan’s most renowned literary figures and artists. The museum-like atmosphere of the hotel, with its rich cultural exhibits, makes for a truly enchanting experience.
Beyond its elegant interiors, the dining options here are equally impressive. The hotel boasts four different restaurants, offering French cuisine, Japanese fine dining, and teppanyaki. Given the theme of this trip—Ama culture—we decide to indulge in fresh sushi and sashimi at the Japanese restaurant Hamayu, located on the fourth floor of the hotel.

We start the morning a little early, checking out of the hotel at 9:00am and heading to the Kashikojima Espana Cruise terminal, which is about a 15-minute walk from the hotel.

Now, it's time to set sail on a 50-minute cruise through the Ise-Shima waters that have nurtured the Ama culture! Boarding a sightseeing vessel inspired by a Carrack ship from Spain’s Age of Exploration, we glide across Ago Bay, eventually returning to our departure point.
With the ocean breeze on our skin and the scent of the sea filling the air, we take in the deep blue waters and the countless islands that dot the bay from every direction. The perspective from the ship offers a completely different and breathtaking experience compared to viewing the bay from land.

Heading to Iwajin Pearl Store, located right in front of Kashikojima Station, we arrive just five minutes on foot after disembarking from the cruise.
Founded in 1926, Iwajin Pearl Store specializes in high-quality Akoya pearls, carefully crafted into timeless and elegant accessories that transcend passing trends. The large pearls on display are truly breathtaking, making them a must-have for formal occasions.
As we admire the exquisite collection and enjoy a bit of shopping, we wait for the café to open.

In 1981, a corner of the store was transformed into Iwajin Café, offering high-level Mediterranean cuisine crafted by a chef who trained in Monaco.
The highlight here is the Iwajin-style Bouillabaisse Lunch, a signature dish that won the 2nd Shima S★1 Grand Prix in 2017 by an overwhelming margin.
This dish is not only delicious on its own, but also offers various ways to enjoy it—dipping bread into the rich broth, topping it with ratatouille, or mixing the ratatouille into the soup for a minestrone-like twist. With so many ways to savor it, I found myself finishing the dish in no time.

After arriving at Ugata Station by Kintetsu train, we transferred to the Mie Kotsu bus bound for Goza Port, reaching the final stop, "Goza Port," in about 60 minutes. From there, it was a 15-minute walk to Pearl Miki.

Ago Bay is where Kokichi Mikimoto, known as the "Pearl King," achieved the world's first success in pearl cultivation. Even today, numerous pearl rafts float on the water. Several factors contributed to the success of pearl farming in this area, including water temperature, the amount of plankton, and tidal currents. Additionally, the presence of ama (female divers) played a crucial role. Without their work in collecting Akoya oysters, pearl farming may never have succeeded.

At Pearl Miki, visitors can learn about the traditional pearl cultivation process while experiencing pearl extraction and accessory-making firsthand.
After registering, we moved to the pearl farm raft, where we carefully selected one Akoya oyster, extracted the pearl inside, polished it to a radiant shine, and finally transformed it into a one-of-a-kind pearl accessory. Holding our custom-made pearl accessories in hand, we were overwhelmed with a sense of wonder and accomplishment. This experience is sure to remain an unforgettable memory.