Tottori: A Journey to Unwind in the Majesty of Nature at San’in Kaigan Geopark

Begin your journey by renting a car in Osaka and hitting the road.
After an approximately 2-hour and 45-minute drive, arrive at your first stop:
San’in Kaigan National Park – Tottori Sand Dunes Visitor Center.

After a long drive, the first stop is the Visitor Center, where knowledgeable guides are always on hand to provide tourist information about the sand dunes.
Stepping out of the car, you can feel the sea breeze in the air—take a deep breath and soak in the atmosphere.
Inside, the center features a variety of exhibits explaining the formation of the Tottori Sand Dunes, the plants and animals that inhabit the area, and the relationship between people and the dunes. The life-size animal models are so realistic that I couldn't help but stop and stare, almost expecting them to move!

Next, head to the Sunakura mini-theater to experience the dramatic, ever-changing landscapes of the sand dunes through an immersive video presentation. See the dunes transform over time and across seasons as a perfect warm up for your visit.
There also an indoor rest area with a 4-meter-long exposed volcanic ash layer exhibit, displayed in an open, high-ceiling space—it’s definitely worth a closer look!

The facility also has foot-washing stations and towel vending machines, which come in handy after walking through the Tottori Sand Dunes—since sand is bound to get into your shoes! I made a mental note to stop by on my way back.

Next up is a stop at Sakyu Center Miharashi-no-Oka, a multi-purpose facility located on a small hill that keeps a souvenir shop, restaurant, and observation deck on site.
The hands-down highlight here is the famed Sand Dunes Seafood Bowl (served with small side dishes and miso soup), known since making rounds on social media!
Out comes the full pomp and circumstance of tasteful seafood, all in an arrangement to make anyone smile. The fresh bites dance with the flavor of the season, making for a taste of satisfaction for the belly and soul.

After lunch a trip to the observation terrace on the top floor brings you to a full panorama of the Tottori Sand Dunes to check out before heading over. Stretching far and wide with the Sea of Japan at its back, this view is always one for the books!

Take the skies via the sightseeing lift on on your way between Sakyu Center Miharashi-no-Oka and the Tottori Sand Dunes.
Tickets are available to purchase over at the vending machine just outside the Sakyu Center Miharashi-no-Oka building so you can swing by on your way to the boarding area.
From here the lift takes a slow descent passed neighboring trees, almost as if walking the skies of the forest. The ride only takes about five minutes before arriving at the entrance to the Tottori Sand Dunes!

Located within San’in Kaigan National Park, the Tottori Sand Dunes stretch approximately 16 km east to west and 2 km north to south, making them one of Japan’s largest dune formations. The dunes rise and fall against the Sea of Japan, still untouched by coastal development for a glimpse at ancient, awe-inspiring beauty.

One of the first destinations to aim for is Umanose, a towering sand ridge. Walking across the soft, shifting sand can be quite a challenge, and climbing the steep 47-meter-high slope may feel daunting. Be assured the journey up is always worth the trip thanks to the breathtaking panoramic view of the sprawling Sea of Japan on the other side.
The sand dunes also feature unique natural phenomena. In the central area, you can find the Oasis, a spring-fed pond that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding sand. There are also exposed layers of volcanic ash, which have remained visible since a volcanic eruption around 60,000 years ago. Another highlight is Oigo-Suribachi, a bowl-shaped depression approximately 20 meters deep, adding to the dynamic and ever-changing landscape.

If your travels fall during the day like ours, know that an early morning brings a view of sand mostly untouched by footprints, while an evening trip comes kissed with the golden sunset over the dunes. Keep a pin on this spot to see the dunes at either ideal time of day.

After a mesmerizing stop at the gorgeous Tottori Sand Dunes, it’s time for a short three-minute drive to visit the world’s first museum dedicated to sand sculptures—the Tottori Sand Dunes The Sand Museum.

Since its opening in 2006, the museum keeps a showcase of intriguing sand sculptures in made to exhibit the idea of “Travelling the World in Sand”, with a new theme swapped out nearly every year. What’s truly astonishing is that these intricate sculptures are created using only sand from the Tottori Sand Dunes and water—without any adhesives or hardening agents. Once an exhibition ends, the sculptures are dismantled and returned to sand, which is then reused to create new works, making each exhibition a one-of-a-kind, limited-time experience. The realization that each work is truly fleeting makes them even more precious.

For its 15th edition, 20 sand sculptors from 12 countries have gathered to create masterpieces based on France. This year's exhibition captures the grandeur of aristocratic culture and architecture, represented by Versailles Palace, as well as the dramatic moments of history, including the Hundred Years’ War and the French Revolution.
The level of sand detail is astonishing, with realistic facial expressions, intricately carved hair strands, and lifelike textures that sing with unparalleled craftsmanship.

Bask in the world of art before taking a 20-minute drive to tonight’s stay.

Located in the Iwai Onsen district along the clear waters of the Gamou River, this historic ryokan (Japanese inn) has welcomed may a guest for over 400 years since its founding in the Edo period. The hot spring itself has a history of 1,200 years, and the inn has upheld the tradition of pure, free-flowing natural spring water ever since.
The main bathhouse, made entirely of Hinoki cypress, is available for both men and women. In addition, the inn features a garden-view open-air bath (closed from November to March), private open-air baths, and even a private sauna.
After an active first day—starting with a morning drive, exploring the vast Tottori Sand Dunes, and admiring the sand sculptures—soaking in the soothing hot spring was the perfect way to melt away any travel wears.

The cuisine is just as impressive, offering a carefully curated selection of seasonal delicacies from the Inaba region, featuring both fresh seafood and mountain specialties.
For seafood, the fish is purchased fresh that morning from Ajiro Port in Iwami Town, ensuring the highest quality. For meat dishes, the ryokan serves Tajima’s renowned Tamura Beef, known for its exceptional flavor and tenderness.
One of the standout dishes is the abalone kaiseki course, where live abalone is taken directly from the tank and grilled to perfection right on the wire mesh. This luxurious delicacy, only possible due to its extraordinary freshness, makes for an unforgettable dining experience.
This feast of local tastes is a sumptuous cap to a blissfully full day.

Day 2 launches with a smooth checkout at the ryokan followed by a 15-minute drive to the highlight of this trip—the Uradome Coast Island Cruise!

The Uradome Coast is a breathtaking stretch of shoreline, shaped over time by the powerful waves of the Sea of Japan and harsh winter winds, creating a landscape dotted with islands of all sizes. Taking a sightseeing cruise along this dramatic coastline is the most exciting highlight of this trip!
Once on board your eyes are treated with a full frame of massive rock formations, towering cliffs, and the true thrills of nature’s sheer power.
Some of the must-see sights include Sengan Matsushima, a striking rock formation with a pine tree growing at its peak, as well as Shirahama Coast, known for its coarse-grained sandy beaches. The cruise also offers views of the smooth, rounded boulders of Enishi no Isohama, the wave-cut rock terraces of Shirohara Coast, and the intricate inlets of Kamogaiso, each revealing the rugged beauty of the San’in Kaigan Geopark from the sea.

The sightseeing boat is built with the helm and a prime spot for the captain at the center, ready to detail the massive rock formations and unique cliffs with an extra fun spin and new perspective as you take in the view from the sea. Total cruise tiem is about 40 minutes, meaning there’s plenty of chances to take in all the splendor of Iwami Blue, a mesmerizing blend of emerald green and cobalt blue here in one of Honshu’s clearest waters. The glimmering paradise is sure to blow you away.

Next up is a stop for lunch at a local seafood shop found just near the sightseeing boat information center. Inside you’ll find the proud flags of different fish hanging from the ceiling, leaving now doubt that you’re in for true-blue coastal dining.
A fan favorite here is the Seafood Set, a sumptuous meal where seasonal seafood bites are prepared in the best way known for that ingredient. The meal features a beautifully arranged sashimi platter, perfectly braised fish, and crispy fried seafood, offering a variety of flavors and textures in one satisfying meal.
Even the soup is made using the freshest seafood of the season, whether it's a rich shellfish broth or a flavorful fish head soup. Each bite brings a tasteful foray into the season’s best seafood and a little inspiration to keep you on your journey along the coast.

One of Tottori's rising local specialties is the Mosaebi, often called the "phantom shrimp" due to its rarity. Available only during limited seasons from March to May and early September to mid-November, you’ll find this bite has gained a devoted following. We’ve already made a pact to come back for Mosaebi specifically.

A geopark is a region that promotes education and tourism while preserving geological heritage, local ecosystems, and human lifestyles. In Japan, 47 areas have been certified by the Japan Geopark Network, and among them, 10—including the San'in Kaigan Geopark—have been designated as UNESCO Global Geoparks.
Next up is a specific destination that introduces the San'in Kaigan Geopark through a variety of exhibits, including videos and informational materials.

Step inside and behold a tank with many marine friends native to the nearby waters. The exhibition hall provides documents, 3D models and detailed corners expounding upon Japan’s geological history, from the time when the Japanese archipelago was part of the continent to the formation of the Sea of Japan. It also showcases valuable geological and geomorphological heritage, including igneous rocks and stratified formations associated with this transformation.

A preserved specimen of a giant squid, accidentally caught alive offshore, is an awe-inspiring sight. Measuring 3 meters in length, its imposing presence evokes the mysteries of the deep sea. The experience is further enriched by a 3D theater, where visitors can enjoy immersive films such as The Story of the Land and Sea, The Story of Mystery and Life, and The Story of the Land and People. With each screening lasting about 20 minutes, guests can deepen their understanding of the region’s geological and ecological wonders while enjoying a visually engaging presentation.

This journey comes to a close with a final stop to take in the nature-rich backdrops of the San'in Kaigan Coast at Higashihama Observatory, located at the easternmost point of Uradome Coast, near the border with Hyogo Prefecture.
From this vantage point, the untouched charm of the coastal village of Higashihama, the sweeping curve of the white sandy beach stretching from Higashihama to Higashi Fishing Port, and Haneo Cape, home to Ryujin Cave, the largest sea cave along the San'in Coast all come in frame. The site is also famous for its stunning sunsets. As we gazed at the grand panorama—the ridgeline of the Chūgoku Mountains and the endless horizon—we reflected on the beauty of this unforgettable journey.