Fukui: A Journey to Experience Japan’s World-Class Craftsmanship

Our journey into Fukui’s world of craftsmanship begins at JR Osaka Station, where we board the Limited Express Thunderbird to Tsuruga Station. From there, we transfer to the Happiline Fukui and disembark at Takefu Station.
Next, we switch to bus transportation, taking the Fukutetsu Bus Ikeda Line (bound for Kanayama) and getting off at Washi-no-Sato Bus Stop. A 10-minute walk brings us to our first destination—a traditional Paper Mill, where we will immerse ourselves in the time-honored art of Echizen Washi.

Passing through a district lined with traditional Japanese houses with tiled roofs, our first stop is Ryozo Yanase Paper Mill, a paper workshop founded in 1946 that specializes in making wrapping paper for wagashi (Japanese sweets).
Stepping through the noren curtain emblazoned with the workshop’s "RYOZO" logo, we are immediately captivated by an array of delicately crafted washi products, filling us with excitement. Here, visitors can experience the traditional art of paper-making, using a suketa (papermaking screen) to scoop up the fibrous liquid of kōzo (mulberry bark) and other raw materials to form washi sheets.

As we admire the beautifully crafted washi items, we are warmly greeted by third-generation artisan Kyoko Yanase, who welcomes us with a cheerful "Konnichiwa!" Her extensive knowledge and passion for washi-making shine through as she provides clear and engaging explanations, patiently answering every question.
After the introduction, we are given a rare opportunity to tour the actual workshop, where real products are made. Uniquely, in Echizen Washi, many of the artisans are women, and this workshop is no exception. Watching Yanase and her team skillfully craft washi, their graceful movements and meticulous technique create an atmosphere of focus and dedication, leaving us deeply inspired.
With a newfound understanding of washi materials and the intricate production process, we are now ready for the hands-on papermaking experience.

We move to the experience workshop, donning rental aprons and rubber boots, instantly feeling like washi artisans. Under the guidance of Yanase, we finally begin the hands-on experience.
Holding the suketa (papermaking screen) parallel to the water’s surface, we scoop up the fibrous liquid and move it up and down to evenly distribute the material. Achieving a uniform thickness proves to be more challenging than expected, but with Yanase’s constant support, even first-time participants can feel at ease. After repeating the scooping and shaking motion several times, we successfully complete the paper-making process.
Next, we use a metal mold to imprint decorative patterns onto the paper. After pressing out excess water and carefully drying the sheet, our handmade washi is complete! The finished piece is rolled into a prepared paper tube, allowing us to take it home as a one-of-a-kind souvenir—our very own Echizen Washi with an original swirl design.
After the workshop, we browse a selection of washi crafts, including folding fans and small accessories made by Ryozo Yanase Paper Mill, making for the perfect souvenir-shopping experience to conclude our visit.

Heading north from the Paper Mill, we walk west along National Route 417 for about 20 minutes before arriving at Moriroku, a 150-year-old historic soba restaurant, where we enjoy a well-deserved lunch.

The soba here is made using a time-honored method, preserved since the restaurant’s founding. As soon as we take a bite, the fragrant aroma of buckwheat fills our senses, and the smooth texture enhances the overall experience. This level of quality is no coincidence. Moriroku uses only high-quality, locally grown heirloom Fukui buckwheat, carefully milled in-house to maintain its rich flavor and freshness.
To ensure that each dish is served at peak quality, the soba is freshly made every morning, with strict temperature and timing control from preparation to serving. The attention to detail is evident in the way they prepare their soba. For seiro (cold soba dishes), they use Jūwari Soba, which is made from 100% buckwheat flour and finely cut. For their signature Echizen Oroshi Soba, they use Ni-hachi Soba, a blend of 80% buckwheat and 20% wheat flour, cut slightly thicker to pair perfectly with the grated daikon radish and dipping sauce.
This unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and quality, much like the traditional Echizen crafts, makes dining at Moriroku an unparalleled soba experience.

After finishing lunch, we head south along Prefectural Route 198, then walk east along Hyakunen-dōri for about 15 minutes, arriving at Washi no Sato, an area dedicated to Echizen Washi with several related facilities.
On the eastern side of the charming Washi no Sato Street, we find the Paper & Culture Museum, where we can delve into the history and craftsmanship of Echizen Washi, which has been passed down for over 1,500 years.

Upon entering the museum, a video corner on the left side presents the step-by-step process of washi-making. Watching this after our morning's hands-on experience deepens our understanding of the craft.
Further inside, the museum displays historical timelines, documents, and comparative charts illustrating the differences between washi (Japanese paper) and yōshi (Western paper), allowing visitors to appreciate washi from multiple perspectives.
In the annex, an extensive collection of around 360 types of washi is on display, including hōsho-gami (official document paper), torinoko-gami (high-quality paper), and kyoku-shi (luxury decorative paper), showcasing the incredible diversity of Echizen Washi.
The museum also hosts special exhibitions, where innovative works highlight the versatility and artistic potential of washi, making each visit a new and exciting discovery.

From the Paper & Culture Museum, we stroll westward along a stone-paved promenade, admiring the traditional houses that line the path.

At the Papyrus House’s adjoining shop, visitors can try quick and easy washi craft experiences like making a washi fan or lantern, which take 20 to 40 minutes. The shop offers a wide selection of paper products, including calligraphy and craft washi, origami paper, and decorative papers.
Beyond paper goods, the store features an extensive array of over 1,000 items, ranging from stationery such as book covers and pens, to fashion accessories like earrings, as well as homeware including coasters, folding fans, and Goshuinchō (temple stamp books). The collection even includes mask cases made from washi, ensuring that shopping here is a delightfully immersive experience.
In addition to Echizen Washi, the shop also carries washi products from other regions across Japan, making it an ideal spot for souvenir shopping with a diverse range of choices.

From Washi no Sato Bus Stop, we take the Fukutetsu Bus Nan'etsu Line, riding for about 25 minutes before getting off at Echizen City Hall. From there, a 7-minute walk brings us to tonight’s accommodation, Echizen Kyo Yorozu.
The inn offers three room types, including two Japanese-Western style rooms and the modern private villa "Bettei Kyo Yorozu", which features a wood-burning stove and an expansive 93-square-meter space. Every room is adorned with Echizen’s traditional crafts, such as Echizen Washi and Echizen Pottery, creating a refined and relaxing Japanese atmosphere. While appreciating the beauty of these crafts, guests can unwind in comfortable beds and sofas, enjoying a truly luxurious and tranquil stay.

After a short rest, it's time for the much-anticipated dinner. The meal is a masterfully crafted Japanese course that showcases the culinary expertise of a long-established ryotei and the exceptional local ingredients of Echizen.
Every detail reflects the region’s rich craftsmanship, from the Echizen Washi decorations to the Echizen Pottery tableware, enhancing the dining experience. The dishes, meticulously prepared with seasonal ingredients, offer a delicate and refined taste, engaging all five senses.
Surrounded by exquisite Japanese craftsmanship, we indulge in this unforgettable gastronomic experience, recharging for the next day's journey.

The second day's destination, Sabae, the city of eyeglasses, is easily accessible. From the inn, it's a 10-minute walk to Happiline Fukui Takefu Station, where a 5-minute train ride brings us to Sabae.
With over 90% of Japan’s eyeglass frames produced here, Sabae is a town deeply rooted in eyewear craftsmanship. Now, it’s time to explore this fascinating town, known for its world-class optical industry.

The road from Happiline Fukui Sabae Station to our next destination, the Megane Museum, is known as "Megane Street", a lively walkway filled with unique and playful eyewear-themed features.
As we pass through the underground passage beneath the railway, we notice numerous eyeglass engravings on the stairs. Emerging from the passage, we are greeted by bollards wearing eyeglasses, giving them a charming, character-like appearance.
Beyond that, we encounter eyeglass-shaped benches, manhole covers, and signboards, some of which are instantly recognizable, while others are cleverly hidden, waiting to be discovered. As we stroll along, enjoying these whimsical details, we make our way toward the Megane Museum, fully immersed in Sabae's eyewear culture.

After strolling along Megane Street, we arrive at the Megane Museum. Having been so engrossed in spotting all the playful eyeglass-themed features along the way, we decide to take a short break at MUSEUM CAFE on the second floor.
We order a cup of specialty coffee, carefully selected by a local roastery in Echizen City, exclusively for MUSEUM CAFE. To accompany it, we indulge in cakes and jellies crafted by a local sweets shop, enjoying a moment of relaxation before diving into the world of eyewear.

After a refreshing break, we head to the first floor to explore the Megane Museum. The exhibits showcase over 100 years of eyewear history, featuring tools used in eyeglass-making, along with a "Famous People’s Eyewear Collection", which displays glasses once worn by renowned Japanese figures—a truly exciting sight.
Beyond the historical exhibits, the museum also houses a shop displaying and selling the latest models from around 50 eyewear-related companies in Fukui Prefecture. For those looking for a hands-on experience, a workshop (reservation required) allows visitors to create their own eyewear, making this museum a must-visit destination filled with fascinating insights and activities.

After exploring the Megane Museum, we head back towards Sabae Station, walking north along National Route 8 for about 8 minutes to reach a specialty kamameshi restaurant for lunch.
This kamameshi (iron pot rice) is made using 100% Fukui-grown Koshihikari rice, combined with fresh local seafood and seasonal ingredients. Each dish is cooked to order, ensuring the rice is fluffy and steaming hot, allowing the natural flavors of the ingredients to shine.
The menu highlights Fukui’s culinary specialties, such as Echizen crab and grilled mackerel, while also offering seasonal delights. In spring, there’s sea bream and bamboo shoots, in summer, sweetfish and eel, in autumn, matsutake mushrooms, grilled salmon, and salmon roe, and in winter, Seiko crab and oysters. With limited-time seasonal menus, this is a place worth visiting again and again.
We savor the fragrant, umami-rich kamameshi, expertly cooked with their secret dashi broth, making for an unforgettable meal.

After lunch, we head to Sabae Station to catch the 2:00pm Tsutsuji Bus bound for Shinmei Station. After a 20-minute ride, we get off at Fukushin Shinmei Branch bus stop and walk about 12 minutes to our next destination.

This is Lens Park, operated by Inui Lens, a company that has been manufacturing sunglass lenses and planning its own brand since 1953. Here, visitors can create their own custom sunglasses.
The experience begins with a fun experiment, demonstrating how sunglasses protect the eyes and educating visitors on the science behind lenses. Next, we tour the sunglass production factory, getting an exclusive look at a process usually unseen by the public.
Finally, it’s time for the exciting hands-on experience of crafting our own custom sunglasses. We select from about 300 types of lenses, including those used by famous brands, carefully choosing the perfect match for our brought-in eyeglass frames. The anticipation builds as we customize our own unique pair.
To top it all off, after the experience, guests are treated to a complimentary soft-serve ice cream or specialty coffee, making for a satisfying and memorable visit.